Lacquered walls, glints of gold, traditional tea chests with 40 varieties to try – the signals that this is the Royal China group’s elevated flagship (‘not an everyday drop-in’) are as clear as the water in its seafood tanks. ‘Swift, helpful and attentive’ service adds polish to a foodie experience that is bolstered by refined cooking and clever takes on traditional themes. Elegant dim sum is the no-brainer daytime option (try the superlative steamed lobster dumplings in rice wine), while the high-end theme (and pricing) continues onto the main menu with dishes including stir-fried prawns with spring tea leaves, mandarin fillet steak and veal with hot and spicy salt. The only gripe is that desserts such as lychee jelly with rose don’t quite match the creative standards that preceded them. Recommended for big bashes, too.
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