‘Club’ is a telling term in the context of Royal China. There isn’t membership as such, but prices nevertheless make it an exclusive option. This is the deluxe version of the sister restaurant down the road, with lobsters & crabs waiting to meet their fate in polished tanks, & a more experimental, refined approach to Chinese cuisine. Must-try dishes include delicate dim sum – a Royal China trademark, but here given a grander look with premium seafood such as Dover sole. Simply prepared lobster with noodles is also a hit, & Cantonese classics sit happily alongside the likes of Chinese yam poached in supreme soup or a layered crab appetiser with jade-green sauce. Huge tables & elaborate tea rituals add to the sense of occasion, but readers’ comments regarding service are mixed.
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