You can imagine what it must be like working in a cramped ship's kitchen at this ‘cluttered' and perennially rammed seafood/boozing joint. From stools and high tables squeezed into the wedge-shaped room, you can watch the chefs shucking, filleting, grilling and frying at close quarters. Oysters are the star of the show, whether from the Wright Brothers' own beds on the Helford River in Cornwall or from further afield (Dorset rocks or Spéciales de Claire). A short menu of piscine classics also features spot-on renditions of devilled whitebait, moules marinière and fish pie, while daily specials vary with the catch – anything from huge grilled prawns spiked with harissa to whole Dorset crab with mayonnaise. To drink, it has to be oyster-friendly stout and porter – although good-value French wines and fizz have their supporters here.
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