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The presence of owner (and proud Venetian) Simon Piovesan keeps a smart crowd coming back to 2 Veneti for personal service and the food of his home region. Brick arches, giant blue urns and city prints make for a comfortable setting, and the food is equally easy to like – if a touch imprecise. Excellent soft, salty focaccia is the pick of the breads, and it's worth opening with some fashionable cichetti: try the well-crafted pâté of salted cod or sweet-and-sour sardines with plump sultanas and pine nuts. Follow with fritto misto (including crisp soft-shell crab) or thick bigoli pasta with anchovies and onions. Dessert might be almond and chocolate salami, and with keen prices for W1 (four courses are £33.50) it's worth splashing out on a bottle of Amarone from the solid all-Italian list.

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