Don’t be put off by the joyless exterior on Kentish Town High Street; this charming southern Italian trattoria has plenty of warmth inside. Squeeze between elbow-to-elbow tables & kick off meals with pane carasau: gorgeously crisp Sardinian bread anointed with olive oil. The knack for making dough continues with pizzas that sport such toppings as pecorino & cured wild-boar ham, then there are tasty pastas, including the house special of linguine alla bottarga (with dried grey mullet roe). A raft of simply prepared meat & fish dishes follows (veal in white-wine sauce, say, or seared chicken breast with lemon & spinach), & puds rarely stray from the Italian classics. Sardinia produces some impressive wines, as highlighted in the wine list, though beyond house bottles they’re pricey. Capricious service has been known to let the side down, too.
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