Hidden on the upper levels of a Victorian house, with a rather groovy bar serving ‘remarkably good’ cocktails on one floor and a warm-toned dining room with only enough space for 10 tables above, this bustling little eatery is a curious but pleasing local success story. The mood of calm, relaxing comfort combined with an understated fixed-price menu make it the perfect choice for dates and special occasions, and the kitchen shows serious talent when it comes to melding British, French and Italian flavours. Choice is limited, but the line-up changes every two weeks – so expect anything from smoked eel with beetroot and watercress to lamb with aubergines and tomato, or plaice with leeks and lemon. Prices are remarkably fair, and the succinct 60-bin wine list manages to cater for all budgets.
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