Redesigned & reconceived, this newish Thai over three floors has moved away from things ‘royal’ to concentrate on a more casual offering, serving street food staples – stir-fries, stews, soups, salads & curries – in an attractive setting that succeeds in conjuring up a Bangkok café. The cooking is authentic, but not slavish: Benja’s take on a som tam salad includes green apple, while yum yai (aka the ‘great Bangkok salad’) comes with walnuts; elsewhere, the fishcake lollipops are fun & tasty, as are the prawns on lemongrass sticks. Penang prawns is one of the punchier mains, while yellow lamb curry or stir-fried chicken with cashews & water chestnuts cater for more sensitive palates. Three set menus named after well-known Bangkok districts are terrific for a weekday lunch for under £15, & service is super-sweet.
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