Pearl Liang

The Paddington Basin redevelopment was intended to be something of a gastronomic hub, but the soulless business park has failed to lure foodies & its star attraction, Pearl Liang, seems to have suffered. Once the area’s hottest ticket, it now divides readers. Supporters reckon it’s a ‘hidden gem’ that will not disappoint, while critics argue that service is ‘appalling’ & the food merely ‘OK’. The setting, at least, remains appealing – an ornate black & fuchsia hideaway that provides an intimate backdrop for the contemporary Cantonese menu. There’s plenty of choice, from steamed razor clams with XO sauce, or fried ribs with salted plum & honey, to sizzling king prawns in mandarin sauce, sweet & sour chicken smartened up with pomegranate seeds, or baked seafood rice with abalone & oyster sauce. Dim sum is popular at lunchtime, & evening set menus (from £23) help keep the bills in check.