Four O Nine
| Address: | 409 Clapham Road SW9 9BT | |
|---|---|---|
| Tel | 020 7737 0722 | |
| Email: | reservations@fouronine.co.uk | |
| Website: | Visit Four O Nine website | |
Price:
£40.00 
|
Wine: £18.00 |
Champagne: £30.00 |
| Opening Hours: | Mon-Sun 6-10.30pm |
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Square Meal review of Four O Nine:
This new restaurant above the Clapham North pub is reached by ringing a discreet doorbell & then climbing a steep staircase that wouldn’t look out of place in the darker streets of Soho. Inside, clubby, brown-leather seats, funky photographic wallpaper & a chic bar set the scene for the modern food from ex-Chez Bruce chef Ian Smart. He reinterprets familiar Chez Bruce classics like roast cod with olive oil mash, though not always with his alma mater’s common-sense discipline. Starters were noticeably less accomplished than mains: a large bowlful of ham consomme with dumpling-like pea ravioli was almost flavourless, but fillet of bream with aubergine caviar was much better. Tarte tatin for pud was fine, if unexciting, while a pricey wine list seems like another attempt at exclusivity unlikely to endear this place to locals.
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