The consensus on Sam & Eddie Hart’s super-busy tapas bar is that ‘everything about it is right’. Slide in early or queue for a stool at the red leather bar, then watch as your tortilla is cooked perfectly before your eyes, & choose from ultra-fresh seafood kept waiting on ice: razor clams, baby red mullet, gleaming mackerel. Elsewhere, morcilla, pimientos de Padrón, fantastic hams, garlicky gambas & grilled quail are fixtures, although terrific new dishes turn up on the placemat menu from time to time – coca Mallorquína (a traditional vegetable pie), presa Ibérica or Catalunyan chicken with romesco sauce, for example. The Harts’ new wine man favours lesser-known producers & fresh-tasting tipples with good acidity, such as the red Navaherreros from south of Madrid. Prices are ‘upper-end Soho’ & it’s easy to run up a hefty bill – but you won’t begrudge it.
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