The Empress Of India

The Empress of India opened in early 2007 &, despite being part of the Tom & Ed Martin empire (the brothers behind The Gun, The Well & The White Swan), is more restaurant than gastropub. Aimed at the affluent end of Hackney, it’s a stately spot with red Chesterfield-style banquettes, mussel-shell chandeliers & hand-painted wallpaper depicting 18th-century Mogul India. Prices are on the high side, but the food is accomplished: to start there’s light wild mushroom & Gruyere tart or rich crab bisque with Cognac cream, with roast breast & confit leg of guinea fowl complemented by a delicious slice of crunchy-topped sage potato cake & braised red cabbage to follow. The wide-ranging wine list includes interesting bottles such as Curious Grape from Kent, while the bar fixes a pretty decent Martini. A hard-working venue, The Empress is open for breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea & supper, & does a brisk business at weekends, with Saturday brunch & a Sunday rotisserie.