The Fat Badger

Lying at the non-touristy end of Portobello Road, this appealing, newish gastropub has proved a hit with local thirtysomethings. It’s a large & elegantly dressed Victorian boozer with a downstairs pub boasting a period bar & high ceilings hung with gleaming chandeliers, while upstairs holds a buzzy dining room with a hidden alcove & sexy wallpaper. The food is well done, with the bar featuring trad Brit snacks like Welsh rarebit, chicken & duck livers with bacon & thyme, & crubeen (pig’s trotters). In the dining room, starters include a tangy salad of pear, beetroot & watercress. To follow, slow-cooked, pot-roast featherblade of beef fell off the bone & was topped by a green dollop of coriander & chive puree. To finish, a rich chocolate & brandy mousse was lent extra depth of flavour by Agen prunes. The only hiccup is that service can be slow.