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Square Meal Review of Acorn House ?

Co-founder, chef & eco hero Arthur Potts Dawson has left Acorn House to concentrate on his People’s Supermarket project, & there are signs that standards are wobbling at this crusading restaurant within earshot of the Eurostar terminal. Service has become rather ‘lax’ & the condition of the utilitarian premises leaves a little to be desired, but the food generally hits the button. Menus are driven by shrewdly garnered supplies of ‘green box’ seasonal produce, & the results have a rough-hewn appeal: creamy carrot & hazelnut soup, vivid salads (perhaps asparagus with beetroot, spinach & wild garlic), chicken breast with shiitake mushrooms, bok choy & cucumber, or char-grilled lamb cutlet with yoghurt & tamarind are typical of the kitchen’s output. To finish don’t miss the wacky ice creams, which eschew vanilla & chocolate in favour of tobacco & hay. The enterprising drinks list includes plenty of organic wines by the glass.

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Arthur Potts Dawson

Acorn House’s Chef - After almost 20 years in the industry, Arthur Potts Dawson finally attracted the attention of the dining public with the launch of the environmentally friendly restaurant Acorn House in late 2006. A nephew of rock icon Mick Jagger, he started cooking at the age of 16 & did service in the kitchens of Kensington Place & La Tante Claire before rising to the position of head chef at the River Café. Former colleague Jamie Oliver asked him to become executive chef at Fifteen, where he met Jamie Grainger-Smith. Their shared attitude to the environment proved the inspiration for Acorn House. Initial success turned to London-wide fame when it was named Restaurant of the Year by the Observer's Food Monthly magazine in 2007. A year later, the pair upped their collective eco profile even further with the launch of the Water House in Hoxton.
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