Theo Randall at the InterContinental

One of the most lauded openings of 2006 has proved a unanimous hit with those foodies undeterred by its very hotel-ish – & often very quiet – setting within the revamped Interconti. There’s much that impresses: service from the ‘friendly, happy’ staff is first-rate while no expense has been spared either on the dining room’s elegant interior or the sourcing of quality ingredients. As at chef Theo Randall’s alma mater, the River Cafe, provenance is key, allowing strong, clear flavours to shine through, whether a blamelessly fresh assembly of Devon crab with mixed leaves, herbs, aioli & bruschetta or Randall’s signature dish of char-grilled Limousin veal chop with roseval potatoes, roasted artichokes & salsa verde: possibly the juiciest piece of meat in the capital. Pastas & an impeccably kept cheeseboard are other highlights. The only note of caution is that if you want a reminder of how ingredients are supposed to taste, this is an expensive lesson.