Bumpkin

This ‘clever concept’ has won almost unanimous praise with a simple but successful formula: ‘super-friendly’ service that’s ‘vigilant & attentive’, an affluent, upbeat crowd that creates a non-stop buzz, & witty country-house furnishings that add a warm & rustic vibe. Simple & hearty food that’s ‘made with really fresh ingredients’ is cooked to a high standard: a charter pie was a seductive medley of bacon, chicken, thyme & cream, a generous portion of skewered scallops was deftly grilled, & a side order of braised peas with bacon & spring onion was a punchy delight. A snappy global wine list is divided into jolly categories (‘fruity & fun’, ‘full & serious’), there are Suffolk ciders & ales, plus great cocktails. The odd dissenting voice points to uncomfortably close tables & a ‘pretentious’ crowd, but with reasonable prices & kids’ portions, Bumpkin is that rare thing: a Notting Hill hangout that caters to everyone.