Leave the skinny jeans & wannabe scenesters of Hoxton Square behind & head along Hoxton Street to this refined yet relaxed hang-out. You’ll be warmly welcomed by staff who have a passion for making theirs a pub that deserves its godly moniker. Sustainability & seasonality are watchwords, & provenance is rarely a problem. There’s a smoking shed (for bacon, fish & the like – not a cheeky ciggie), plus tomatoes, Alpine strawberries & peas in the bijou beer garden, & plans for a rooftop greenhouse. From such ingredients, the kitchen produces impressive modern British cooking: perhaps haggis Scotch eggs with mustard mayo; lamb cutlets with roasted beetroot, carrots & parsnip mash; & rhubarb fool with blackberry sauce. Roasts are spot-on too, with a ‘host your own’, carve-at-the-table option for lazy Sunday gatherings. Make an afternoon of it by choosing wine from a list that strays off the beaten track.
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