The garrulous High Road Brasserie has much going for it – after all, its please-all offering spans everything from breakfast, brunch and afternoon tea to kids' menus and drinks of every description. Being a ‘jack of all trades' is fine, but recent reports suggest that it also risks becoming a ‘master of none' – with average food, slow service and poor value all coming in for criticism. However, the menu offers bags of choice, from small plates and sandwiches to brasserie staples ranging from steak tartare, aubergine parmigiana and mackerel niçoise to sausage and mash. French toast and eggs Benedict will appeal to early birds, and there's a gratifyingly wide selection of well-made cocktails for the drinkers who also congregate in this bustling all-day venue with its jazzy tiled floors, leather banquettes and rather arty light fittings.
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