Chris Galvin's window on the world (well, the metropolis and beyond) continues to induce gasps of astonishment from everyone who ventures up to this glamorous 28th-floor eyrie. ‘Decadent, swanky and truly phenomenal', gushed one first-timer. Following head chef André Garrett’s move to Cliveden, new man Joo Won is staying with the Michelin-starred programme – delivering grand gestures and melding smart French technique with a magpie approach to ingredients. Seared Scottish scallops are served with sweetcorn purée, slow-cooked pork belly and shellfish reduction, while breast of Landes pigeon is dressed up in warmly exotic style with pastilla, couscous, aubergine purée and spiced harissa jus. As for desserts, caramelised pear tarte Tatin still leads the charge. Some diners have been fazed the boozy shenanigans in the adjoining bar, and there's a suggestion that it's more about the wraparound vistas than the food, but there's no arguing when it comes to the ‘wow' wine list.
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