Saki Bar & Food Emporium

A two-storey hub of Japanese gastronomy in the City, Saki comprises an emporium, bar & swish restaurant. The otherwise stylish red & grey basement dining room isn’t improved by an island centrepiece of white stones & drip-hardened candles, but ignore that & concentrate on the six-course ‘omakase’ (‘as the chef likes’) menu, which can be served with (or without) matching wine & saké. The kitchen delivers visually arresting food that assimilates all the classic culinary techniques, from sakizuke appetisers & sashimi to steamed mushimono (including savoury chawan mushi ‘custard’) & grilled yakimono. Otherwise, expect high-end chef’s specials ranging from braised duck gibuni with young bamboo shoots to a pairing of king prawn & nanohana flower tempura in black vinegar sauce. The bar does a good line in saké-based cocktails & sparkling versions of the rice wine, which accommodating staff will happily explain.