Although it’s part sensory experience and part social experiment, there seems to be no shortage of volunteers willing to eat in complete darkness at Dans Le Noir. Diners assemble in a noisy bar with a ‘surprise cocktail’ before stuffing their belongings into swimming pool-like lockers and stumbling into the pitch-black dining room, aided by waiters with walkie-talkies. In keeping with the mystery of the exercise, gastronomic guinea pigs can choose between four different ‘surprise’ menus (including a vegetarian version), but are left to guess exactly what’s on the plate in front of them. The cooking style is described as ‘global with influences from French cuisine’, and darkness is intended to heighten the sense of taste – although you can’t help feeling that too much emphasis is put on the novelty of the whole shebang, at the expense of attention to detail in the kitchen.
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