Forgive the dingy entrance next to Holborn station & descend into a softly lit, atmospheric basement dining room. Deservedly popular, London’s largest Korean restaurant pulls in crowds from across the city & is a terrific advertisement for the cuisine. Pitch-perfect dishes are delivered with polite efficiency & it’s worth ordering to share: try pa jeon (generous seafood pancakes) & rustic yu khei bibimbab (layers of fillet steak, rice & vegetables in a sizzling stone pot), with fiery kimchi & beansprout namool on the side. Trademark Korean BBQs, cooked on hotplates at your table, make ‘great dining theatre’: wrap the pieces of deftly marinated & skilfully grilled meat or fish in lettuce leaves with a dollop of bean paste. Quality doesn’t come cheap, though express lunches & set menus make amends.
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