Perpetually busy & always on song, this sympathetically restored Georgian townhouse is split between a hectic ground-floor watering hole & a refined upstairs restaurant. Small plates of cured meat & Shetland mussels, followed by chunky burgers & pies, make the bar the ‘default lunch venue of choice’ for one regular, although noise levels rise as the post-work crowds descend for pints of Adnams & Doom Bar. For something more civilised, seek sanctuary in the period dining room, which looks as if it belongs ‘in the pages of a newspaper property supplement’. Here, a polished menu promises incisive dishes such as smoked-haddock tart, wood pigeon with dandelion & raspberry salad or ‘divine’ rabbit & mushroom pie. ‘Calm, experienced staff’ are singled out for praise, prices get a cheer, & the whopping wine list is stuffed with good drinking.
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