Having taken his innovative Nordic cuisine to North Road restaurant in Smithfield, Danish chef Christoffer Hruskova has recast this tiny room on a leafy Barnsbury backstreet as an unpretentious local bistro. Hruskova’s enthusiasm for fresh, seasonal produce is still much in evidence, & the two young chefs in the small open kitchen utilise ingredients at the peak of their flavour. Asparagus might be accompanied by sweet brown shrimps & a subtle tarragon butter, while spring lamb sits on a vibrant green purée dotted with more fresh peas. The wine list is concise yet appealing; like the food, it’s not cheap, but this doesn’t seem to bother the well-off locals. Plenty stop by for a relaxed supper or a refined brunch of Danish rye with scrambled eggs & smoked salmon, paired with a Prosecco & peach Bellini.
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