The Montagu

Still looking fresh after its refurbishment a few years ago, The Montagu continues to serve top-drawer comfort food that changes with the seasons. Menu highlights might include a delicate rocket soup followed by a tender fillet of veal, with a terrific vanilla pannacotta wittily served in a dinky glass jar to finish. A la carte prices match the hotel location – from £15.50 for bangers & mash to £34.50 for poached lobster – but there’s a regularly changing set menu, competitively priced at £22 for three courses with half a bottle of wine. Floor-to-ceiling windows with views over Portman Square make for a light, airy atmosphere. The best seats in the house are at the long chef’s table opposite the open kitchen. Just don’t expect to witness any ego-driven histrionics: there’s a quiet efficiency at work here.