The Dorchester’s ‘Chinese fine-dining’ restaurant is a favourite of stick-thin supermodel Kate Moss which, some might argue, isn’t much of a recommendation. Anyone who appreciates dramatic, deco-style interiors, ‘fantastic service’ & peerless celeb-spotting will be smitten, while those on the receiving end of the bill may feel otherwise. Highlights of the Cantonese menu are the signature Peking duck served over three courses (pancakes, soup, then a stir-fry), the plump dim sum & the lobster dishes. None of it comes cheap (not even the congee or sweetcorn soup) – especially as many consider the food little better than workaday. Those out of their financial comfort zone are better served by the set lunch (£23 with a glass of wine), although there is much to commend sipping ‘excellent cocktails’ & nibbling all-day dim sum in the adjacent bar.
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