Missouri

Colour prints of New York icons – the Empire State & Chrysler Buildings, the Brooklyn Bridge – pep up the smart but otherwise bland decor of this upmarket slice of Americana on the City’s eastern fringe. Much of the menu is as American as the Star-Spangled Banner: start with New England clam chowder or Virginia ham with smoked oysters, celeriac & applewood Cheddar before a 10oz peppered New York strip or perhaps blackened salmon with rocket – sorry, arugula – & ranch dressing. The fries are French & the beef is Scottish & organic; desserts include a baked New York cheesecake & a pecan maple tart. Though the wine list includes a Firesteed Pinot Gris 2004 from Oregon & a Seghesio Zinfandel ’05 from Sonoma, French wines dominate, particularly among the more expensive selections.