Nancy Lam’s answer to the perfect restaurant may not fit with everyone else’s, but this is where the telly chef puts her money where her mouth is. She has been cooking here long enough (some 19 years) for the novelty of celebrity chefdom to wear off, & though she does make an appearance when she’s around (which is quite often), customers come for the food rather than the personality. Indeed, Lam’s versions of beef rendang & chicken sambal are pretty good, if somewhat expensive. The same cannot be said of the 1970s-style dining room or the occasionally extraordinarily grumpy service. Enak Enak is set at the unfashionable end of Lavender Hill, hence there’s not much local competition, but even so the place is rarely packed.
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