A tavern of sorts has stood here since the 18th century, although this Clerkenwell boozer has acquired some serious foodie aspirations in its current guise. The kitchen has expanded its repertoire somewhat since the days when slabs of Cheddar were à la mode for hungry Victorian gents, but the upstairs dining room doesn’t try to be too flash with its cleverly mismatched furniture & large, handsome windows. Norfolk asparagus or a bowl of steamed Shetland mussels are typical of the no-nonsense starters, while mains might include roast chicken leg with flageolet beans or pan-fried bavette with grilled mushrooms. After dinner, repair to the airy downstairs bar, where pints of Purity UBU & Whitstable East India Pale Ale beckon, along with some quaffable Old World wines. Saturday brunch & Sunday roasts, too.
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