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Overlooking one of the few green spaces in Canary Wharf, Plateau is nonetheless a proper big-city venue. You ascend in a lift to the glass-encased, clean-lined restaurant on the fourth floor, and while the view down to Canada Square Park is alluring, it’s the shiny towers all around that really draw the eye. The kitchen complements all that modern style and polish by offering contemporary European dishes lightly dusted with hints of international character – our pleasing salad of Cornish crab, pink grapefruit and brown-crab mayonnaise came with pickled pink ginger, while well-rendered fillet, hock and belly of Gloucester Old Spot pork was accompanied by baby carrots and soy jus. There’s praise for the ‘excellent-value’ set menu, too. Wines are taken seriously, but there’s no snootiness, and staff will happily help you choose a good match.
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