Paraded as Brick Lane’s original Bangladeshi eatery, The Clifton is ever salubrious, if rather utilitarian in terms of cuisine – an airy corner site with an open kitchen that allows passers-by to peer in and see the chefs at work. The menu offers what it calls ‘old favourites’, such as korma, jalfrezi and chicken tikka masala (made, says the menu, without artificial colouring), but also Pakistani curries, Goan dishes such as lamb xacuti, and Bangladeshi specialities. Shatkora curry is sharpened up with a citrus fruit grown in the Sylhet region; whole baked rupchanda fish comes topped with fried onions, and ureebisi gatta dishes are flavoured with the seeds of Bangladeshi runner beans. There’s also plenty for vegetarians, as well as half-a-dozen express lunches for under a tenner.
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