Prince Alfred & Formosa Dining Rooms

Departing from the standard gastropub template, The Prince Alfred & Formosa Dining Rooms has two quite separate identities. The pub is an Alice in Wonderland-style fantasy with various nooks & crannies linked by Lilliputian doorways. Here peanuts & wasabi peas make up the bar snacks & drinks include Staropramen & Young’s Bitter on tap. The dining room is much more modern with clean lines running throughout & a steel-panelled ceiling. The menu sticks to a simple formula with the likes of butternut squash risotto, fillet of cod with beurre blanc or lamb rump with savoy cabbage & herb jus. Sadly, execution is uneven & meat & fish often turn up overcooked & lacklustre. Service, however, is chirpy, prices are fair & the neat wine list is conveniently arranged by style.