The less formal & more boisterous sibling of Club Gascon, Comptoir applies the culinary traditions of south-west France to sturdy bistro fare. The mood here is ‘market kitchen’, with specials scrawled on blackboards, shelves of cookbooks & provisions, plus a short menu of resolutely vigorous dishes. Start with ‘piggy treats’ (a charcuterie pick & mix) or spicy mackerel with fondant potato. Mains are divided between ‘mer’, ‘terre’ & ‘végetal’ – carnivores could do worse than choose barbecued shoulder of lamb with crispy polenta & black olives, although the roster of duck dishes is also mighty tempting (confit, gabure béarnaise, or the famous Gascony pie). Supporters reckon the cassoulet is ‘the best in the UK’, & a keenly priced French wine list adds to the authentic rusticity of it all.
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