While starry Club Gascon reconsiders and redefines the culinary legacy of south-west France, this peppy sibling gets back to basics with ‘pig’ and ‘duck’ squarely on the agenda. The must-order ‘piggy treats’ is a ‘smorgasbord of all things porky’, although star billing goes to the quacking bird, which appears in myriad delicious forms across the menu: duck eggs are served with mushroom concassé, duck fat is etched into ‘crazy salt’ chips (‘the stuff food dreams are made of’), and the bistro’s suited fans can’t get enough of the benchmark confit, cassoulet and duck burger. Lighter ideas such as chicory salad with BBQ mushrooms and orange vinaigrette are just as compelling. Terrific regional French wines and ‘pretty reasonable’ prices further account for Comptoir’s success.
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