The sesame naan cooked in Colbeh’s mosaic-crusted, Iranian bread oven is representative of everything about this tiny, family-run eatery: it’s authentic, delicious & resolutely no-nonsense. Plates of spicy aubergine & walnut yoghurt salad, pickles & show-stopping bread may be served up with a side order of gruff ‘attitude’ – although fans insist that a certain surliness is part of its charm, & that the mixed mezze, the shish kebabs & the lamb stews rich with walnuts & spices make up for any lack of good humour. At weekends, crowds pack in to feast on special ‘green rice’ with dill & broad beans – ‘true Persian comfort food’. The setting is intimate & unpretentious, while approachable prices & a BYO policy (no corkage, but limited to one bottle between two people) enhance its appeal.
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