Canteen

The menu is as pared down as the decor of this hard-edged modern Brit, with brusque descriptions such as ‘soup of the day, bread & butter’ or ‘macaroni cheese’ likely to induce waves of school-dinner nostalgia. Fortunately, standards are higher than in the school canteen: the meat is additive-free & sourced direct from the producer, while fish comes fresh from day boats on the south coast. Start with potted duck, piccalilli & toast or perhaps a cos, chicory & anchovy salad before progressing to fish & chips, a fresh-baked pie or the daily roast. For veggies there are Glamorgan sausages with beetroot relish & there’s a tarragon, walnut & roast chicken salad for those who eschew stodge – though don’t pass up the offer of treacle tart or jelly & ice cream for dessert. Austere decor aside, the Canteen experience is suitably comforting for most, though service has its off days.