Attractive wood carvings & a mood of genuine refinement lift this smart Indian above all those flock-wallpaper curry house clichés, an impression reinforced by a wine list that includes high-rolling Champagnes for City slickers who are in the mood for a classy ‘Ruby’. Graze on crispy nibbles at the bar before checking out the extensive menu, which trawls through the familiar litany of dhansaks, bhunas, vindaloos & tandooris but also springs a few gastronomic surprises. ‘Chef’s recommendations’ include Bengali-style guinea fowl bilash cooked on the bone or cinnamon-flavoured ak-bari lamb shank. Veggie sides (which can also be ordered as mains) are mostly the usual suspects, though pohi tah – a long, slim green squash cooked with ‘pink’ lentils – offers respite from the predictable dhals, spinach & cauliflower bhajis.
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