The Albemarle

Things have changed in the august dining room of London’s oldest five-star hotel: the former Grill at Brown’s has been renamed The Albemarle; legendary maitre d’ Angelo Maresca has retired; & a new menu, designed by Mark Hix former chef/director of Caprice Holdings, is being executed by new head chef Lee Streeton. Seasonal British ingredients are to the fore, & dishes are served simply to highlight natural flavour. A generous chunk of perfectly cooked halibut came with no more than butter sauce & sea purslane & sea spinach, while a velvety sirloin steak arrived completely unadorned, its bearnaise sauce brought separately to the table. Some things haven't changed: trolleys still do the rounds at lunchtime, dispensing the likes of roast suckling pig or fillet of beef Wellington with Madeira sauce. The recent addition of some modern photography, meanwhile, has done little to alter The Albemarle’s old-school charm, all wood panelling, thick carpeting, acres of space between tables, & slick, deferential service. There are also set lunch & pre-theatre (5.30-7pm) menus available at £25/30 for 2/3 courses.

Wine List: This is an intriguing list that excels in classic fine wines. Champagne, Bordeaux and Burgundy stand out, with some interesting buys from Italy and Australia. But it’s the older vintages that provide the real interest, with some very rare bottles you simply won’t find elsewhere. Prices are reasonable throughout, with the occasional startling bargain – 1945 Quinta do Noval port at £200 is less than its auction value, as is a magnum of Dom Pérignon rosé at £480. Best Buy White La Rocca Soave 2005, Pieropan, Veneto, Italy, £34. Best Buy Red Bourgogne Rouge 2003, Domaine A-F Gros, Burgundy, France, £45.