Awana’s dimly lit, wood-panelled dining room might suggest a sauna, but a backlit bar, batik silk hangings & Chelsea razzmatazz soon whisk you away to the world of sexed-up Malaysian cuisine. Some of the native fire & spice has been tempered for finicky Western palates, but nobody seems to mind – just look at the melting pot of punters ready for a blowout. Some go for the keenly priced menu touting Malaysia’s greatest hits, such as skilfully marinated chicken satay & rich, sour beef rendang; others pick from the carte, although murtabak (roti bread filled with spiced chicken) & coconut-crusted prawns with chilli & lime leaves have both lacked the expected punch. Things pick up again with terrific desserts, from strange esoteric puds to ice creams & sorbets exploiting the exotic flavours of jackfruit, tamarind & durian.
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