Luciano

As his recent exploits on Hell’s Kitchen proved, Marco Pierre White is not shy of courting controversy & his St James’s Italian follows suit, provoking strong emotions on both sides. Many are dazzled by the beautiful interiors, with mosaic floors, twinkly lighting & leather banquettes in the street-facing casual bar/diner, & crisp linen, well-spaced tables & an outstanding art collection featuring in the more formal dining room behind. We also receive many reports of charming, conscientious service & well-rendered Italian classics, including wild mushroom risotto, sea bass cooked with clams & Barolo, & tiramisu. However, tales of off-days & culinary disappointments also reach us & we hear still more grumbles that waiting staff can sometimes let the smiles slip, lapsing into rudeness & arrogance. Perhaps they’re taking a leaf from their master’s book: a chef/restaurateur famed both for his breathtaking skill & his volatile temperament.