Glancing at the packed tables of this ‘crisp', high-ceilinged dining room overlooking the foodie hubbub of Borough Market, you'd never know the economy was stuttering. Breakfast and business lunches play to packed houses, but there is also plenty of exceptional, ‘brilliantly prepared' stuff on the seasonal carte and list of daily roasts (perhaps rare-breed suckling pig). The kitchen is devoted to provenance and parades its ‘roll of honour' with the likes of Braddock White duck egg with baby squid and Bath Pig chorizo, herb-roasted fillet of Whitestone Cliff Longhorn beef, or Reg Johnson's corn-fed chicken and leek pie with Herefordshire snails. The zeal for local sourced produce extends to a wine list with several selections from English vineyards, including an exclusive tie-in with Kent-based Chapel Down. Some find it rather ‘pricey', loud and touristy – otherwise, pitch-perfect, knowledgeable service and an evocative setting make Roast ‘outstanding in every way'.
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