It may seem as if the galloping Galvin brothers have footholds all over town, but their bullish yet discreet Baker Street ‘bistrot’ is still a barnstorming favourite with most readers. Fans adore the dark, masculine mahogany decor, the glowing silverware & the smart waiters’ garb – not to mention the infectious, buzzy bonhomie produced by a roomful of diners tucking in to chunky French classics beneath ceiling fans. It’s not always plain sailing – closely packed tables & the odd bland flavour have jarred – but no one argues when the kitchen can knock out oysters with hot chorizo or a ‘truly spectacular’ lasagne of Dorset crab, followed by pot-roast Landaise chicken with broad beans, morels & a tarragon velouté or a textbook rib of Angus beef with spinach, ceps & shallot jus. After that, the uncrowned king of desserts is surely a tarte Tatin that ‘virtually glows on the plate’. Unbridled Gallic generosity is alive & well here.
The past 12 months have seen the Galvin brothers win yet more plaudits in culinary circles. Galvin at Windows at the London Hilton on Park Lane was awarded a Michelin star, while Galvin Bistrot de Luxe continues to gain fame as an intestimable big-city eatery. In 2009 Chris & Jeff launched Galvin La Chapelle - their first foray into the Square Mile. It's been a seamless transition from employees to burgeoning restaurateurs for the brothers, who launched Bistrot in 2005 & Windows in 2006. Before that, Chris was picking up acclaim at former Conran eatery Orrery & A-list hangout The Wolseley, while Jeff held a Michelin star for five years when he was executive chef at L'Escargot.
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