This younger sibling of the Park Lane Nobu exerts a powerful pull on celebs & business hotshots, sucking A-listers into its
orbit with its low-lit, chic & understated decor, loungey backbeats & dinky portions of low-calorie sustenance that won’t land you in Heat magazine with your cellulite circled. The
‘phenomenal’ food in the first-floor restaurant attracts almost unanimous praise, with mention of ‘delicate flavours’ & ‘intricate textures’. Hits include yellowtail sashimi with jalapeño,
crispy pork belly with spicy miso, rock shrimp tempura, & freshwater eel sushi. The fact it’s all ‘prohibitively costly’ is a downer (especially given the cramped seating) while regulars also
sniff that it’s ‘hard to see any change on the menu’. Service seems to have improved, with reports of ‘attentive & eager’ staff outweighing those in the ‘seriously bad’ camp. One final caveat:
seats to the left of the staircase (up from the ground-floor bar) are a celeb-free Siberia of ‘pretentious wannabes’.
Chef: Mark Edwards
As group executive chef of Nobu’s London restaurants, Mark Edwards is the culinary right-hand man to celebrated Japanese chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa. Edwards started out working in a seafood restaurant
in Kent at the age of 13, then worked his way through such restaurants as London’s Café Royal and the legendary George V hotel in Paris before finding he had an affinity for Asian cuisine while
working in Manhattan in the late 1980s. After time at the Mandarin Orchard hotel in Singapore and the Peninsula in Hong Kong, he returned to London as sous chef at the former Vong restaurant at the
Berkeley hotel, then worked at Nobu in California before launching the London outpost in 1997. He opened Ubon in 2000 and Nobu Berkeley St five years later.
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