It’s ‘easy to forget this a Ramsay venture’, observes one of Maze’s many supporters. Jason Atherton’s gaff, grafted on to the Grosvenor Square Marriott hotel, certainly shows little obvious
intervention from GR himself – & it delivers stupendous results. ‘A brilliant experience’ with ‘innovation all the way’ is a typically glowing plaudit. A new savoury/sweet tasting menu
(starting at £28 for four courses) is proving its worth at lunchtime, although many still prefer to take a grazing route through the carte. Either way, expect a kaleidoscope of high-calibre
miniature dishes full of thrills. Irish ox ‘tongue ’n’ cheek’ is a deep, unctuous delight with caper, raisin & ginger carrots & wickedly addictive horseradish pomme purée, while the
deconstructed BLT is a showstopper. Crab salad with marinated golden beetroot, apple jelly & bloody Mary sorbet tastes equally exquisite. Desserts keep everyone smiling with, say, peanut butter
& cherry jam sandwich with tonka bean ice cream. Bills can escalate, & the setting might seem highly corporate, but there’s no arguing with the sheer meticulous class of it all.
Wine List: The ‘grazing’ concept demands a wine list with flexibility, & the team at Maze has risen to the challenge. This is a brilliant cellar, strong on food-friendly regions such as
Austria & the Loire, available in a wide range of formats. There’s a page of halves, 40-plus wines & sakés by the glass, as well as Maze’s renowned ‘wine flights’ that enable you to create
fascinating matches. Best Buy White 2007 Vinhas Velhas Luis Pato, Bairrada, Portugal, £35. Best Buy Red 2007 Dolcetto d’Alba, Chiara Boschis, Piedmont, Italy, £34.
Chef: Jason Atherton
Jason Athertson started cooking in Skegness, aged 16, but shot to fame as the first British chef to complete a stage at the legendary el Bulli in Spain. He has worked under many big names including Pierre Koffmann, Nico Ladenis & Marco Pierre White, but following three years in Dubai heading up Verre for Gordon Ramsay, he took London by storm as the main man at Maze. This won a Michelin star & the BMW Squal Meal Restaurant of the Year award in its first 12 months. In 2008, the New York-inspired Maze Grill appeared. Atherton also got public recognition as one of the finalists on BBC's Great British Menu & has written Maze: The Cookbook. The Maze brand is now international, with outlets in Prague, a flagship branch in Cape Town & Melbourne (opening April 2010).
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