Despite its sky-high profile, Brett Graham’s Michelin-starred powerhouse still garners a wildly enthusiastic response from readers. ‘This really is a great restaurant’, trumpets one fan; ‘I love, love, love The Ledbury’, drools another. It certainly looks as suave and moneyed as the neighbourhood it serves, but the dining room’s white-walled chic and leather chairs are matched by genuinely personable and ‘endearing’ service. Graham is a ‘super-talented’ chef who revels in flavour and cooks with jaw-dropping precision: a breath-taking salad of heritage tomatoes comes with tomato meringue, filo tubes of goats’ cheese and green tomato juice, while mains continue the effortless displays of flair and invention – Dover sole with a herby milk ‘skin’, roast cauliflower and mussels is 21st-century cuisine at its most slick and satisfying, while loin of roe deer might appear vividly pointed up with beetroot, blackcurrants and bone marrow. To finish, desserts such as whipped ewe’s milk yoghurt with berries and citrus beignets are miracles of arty sophistication, and a textbook global wine list also helps to make this ‘the best treat in town’.
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