
It may be deep in ‘hedge fund’ territory, but the tastefully appointed Ledbury still feels like a true neighbourhood eatery where the mood is genuinely ‘cool’ & no one bats an eyelid if you
walk in ‘with a bottle of Burgundy under your arm’ (corkage is charged at £25). Much depends on the terrific staff, who know how to blend professionalism with personality – although this place is
really about Aussie whizz-kid Brett Graham’s high-flying food. His brilliantly inventive ‘Antipodean crafting’ may be playful, but it sparkles at every turn – just imagine a tiny aubergine meringue
filled with foie-gras butter. Raising the bar is Graham’s business, whether he is elevating flame-grilled mackerel to star status with pickled cucumber, avocado purée & shiso or matching
firm-fleshed turbot with a vibrant wild fennel mousse, crushed elderflower & umami-rich mousseron mushrooms. Elsewhere, he does extraordinary things with celeriac, infuses pork jowl with star
anise & liquorice, & enlivens crème brûlée with cardamom & apricots. No wonder fans say it’s ‘worth every penny’ – it is.
WINE LIST: You would expect a two-star Michelin restaurant to have an exceptional wine list, but what you might not expect is such a fairly priced one. Luke Robertson, The Ledbury’s unstuffy
head sommelier, has put together a selection of wines that are grown-up but affordable. BEST BUY WHITE 2009 Pietracupa, Fiano d’Avellino DOCG, Campania, Italy, £45.BEST BUY RED 2007
Knights-Errant, Cien y Pico, Manchuela DO, Castilla-La Mancha, Spain, £46.
Brett Graham came to Britain from his native Australia in 2000 &, quite fortuitously, landed himself a job in one of the finest kitchens in London, namely Philip Howard's The Square. Just two years after his arrival, he won one of the industry's most prestigious awards, Young Chef of the Year. Meanwhile, at The Square, he had managed to climb the ranks to senior sous chef. In 2005, Graham launched The Ledbury with the backing of Howard & restaurateur Nigel Platts-Martin. Since then he has really hit the heights: The Ledbury picked up its second Michelin star in 2010 & Graham's latest venture, The Harwood Arms also received its first star, some 18 months after opening in Fulham. Travel to The Ledbury in style with London's leading minicab firm Addison Lee.
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