Inspired by the oriental glamour of 1920s' Shanghai, this modern Chinese makes an elegant setting for business lunches, with its black lacquered tables, luxurious silk drapery and attentive staff. The kitchen's claim to fame is exemplary dim sum, prepared with creativity and skill: choose from steamed ha gau prawn dumplings, crispy yam croquettes, fragrant coriander beef cheung fun or char sui bao (fluffy buns stuffed with barbecued pork). Inventive touches such as a mini golden pumpkin complete with cucumber ‘stalk' raise the bar even further, and main courses such as spicy ‘Shanghai devil' lamb or five willow sesame chicken (stuffed with prawns in sweet-and-sour sauce) are equally appealing. Exotic teas, traditional Chinese spirits and well-chosen wines are further attractions, while the classy cocktails are ‘worthy of a visit alone'. Service is sharp and there is a takeaway service, too.
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