Dim sum is the USP at this elegant Chinese eatery, where you’ll find a menu of accomplished morsels ranging from ‘tai chi’ duck dumplings cleverly wrapped in two-tone squid ink cases to golden pumpkin pastries with tiny cucumber ‘stalks’. Otherwise, we’d recommend fluffy char sui bao (rich barbecue pork buns) or rice congee with salted chicken and peanuts, followed by a large sharing dish of flaky steamed Chilean sea bass with crispy lotus root or steak in Szechuan kung-po sauce. Fragrant teas match the complex cuisine, though thoughtful wines and carefully made signature cocktails are also on offer. Plentiful staff patrol the large dining room, but reports of unfriendly, ‘hostile’ service don’t inspire confidence – although there are no complaints about the setting, with black lacquered wood, opulent silks and subtle lighting conjuring up the exotic feel of old Shanghai.
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