Skip past the ground-floor sushi bar to reach the basement dining room at Kurumaya, a compact, unadorned space offering the choice of traditional (shoes off) or more conventional western seating. The attraction is ‘incredibly cheap’ helpings of ‘proper’ Japanese food, including a broad range of sushi from yellowtail nigiri to toro (tuna belly) sashimi & temaki hand rolls: opt for a chef’s selection (£29.50/£34.50) if indecision gets the better of you. Hot dishes run from deliciously light tempura & robata grills with teriyaki sauce to donburi rice bowls with miso soup – perhaps tender, thinly sliced beef or melt-in-the-mouth freshwater eel with a potent umami kick. Beers include malty Yebisu from Sapporo, otherwise saké & shochu show up alongside the short, sharp wine list. Service is pleasant, if not always super-quick.
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