Tucked away, ‘yet close to all the action’, this Mayfair makeover of a French bistro knows how to please with some scene-setting add-ons. Its adjoining deli provides atmospheric displays of cheeses, soups & smoked fish, while the oyster bar is generally crowded with aficionados knocking back shellfish & fizz with abandon. The dining room goes for clustered, clothed tables, framed French art, a bevy of dapper staff & an all-Gallic selection of bistro standbys. Come here for creamy steak tartare with fat chips, smoked-eel mousse with Melba toast, ever-popular ‘fish fingers’ (an elongated spin on fishcakes), entrecôte with skinny fries, & an unmissable rendition of île flottante, textured like air. The compact, well-spread wine list flits from kindly to costly, although the menu contains fewer bargains.
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