Osteria dell'Arancio

This quirky little Italian stands out from its neighbours – & it’s not only because it has the best alfresco seating, slightly set back from the King’s Road. The decor is eccentric, with graffitied wooden tables & bright trinket-lined canvases covering the walls. The food is just as innovative: beef carpaccio comes with a mustard cress salad, pecorino cheese, pears & walnut pesto, open lasagne is layered with sausage & artichoke ragu, while char-grilled swordfish comes with a tangy sour sauce. Round off your meal with white chocolate mousse with mango & passionfruit sauce, or a selection of Italian cheeses, & take time to explore the wonderful wine list.

Wine List: Bar a few Champagnes, this cracker of a wine list is all-Italian. Margins are low, so there’s a wide choice under £30. If you want to drink the famous areas & producers, everything you could want is here. Beyond that, the wines of the Marche & Abruzzo are a speciality, including some old vintages of Valentini’s iconic Trebbiano. Best Buy White 2004 La Monacesca Verdicchio di Matelica, Marches, Italy, £26. Best Buy Red 2003 La Spinetta Barbera d’Asti Ca di Pian, Piedmont, Italy, £33.