Osteria dell'Arancio

On a sunny summer eve a well-timed phone call invited me to a last-minute dinner at Osteria dell’Arancio. Twenty minutes later and I was sitting down al fresco in front of this brightly coloured affable eatery. The place was recommended by my fellow diner for its superb wine list and altogether stunning food, which certainly lived up to expectations when it arrived at our table. To whet our appetites we ordered a bottle of 2008 Falanghina from the region of Abruzzo, served from its iconic slim green bottle into our beautifully blown and rather roomy wine glasses. It was spectacular. Summer citrus with perfectly balanced acidity in a glass. On some advice from Sicilian sommelier Maurizio Titone we supped and sipped as the sun set behind the buildings surrounding us on the corner of the Kings Road and Milman’s Street. It was a heavenly evening for a heady taste of gastronomy. Our antipasti comprised grilled squid accompanied and baked courgette flower – cooked to perfection. No chewiness in sight, simply melt in your mouth quality with the sweet flavours of cherry tomatoes, red onion, and mango coulis layered over each other to provide a mouth watering combination of textures. On the other side of the table was prosciutto crudo served with parmesan cheese, rocket salad and ripe figs. Our piatti primi arrived to equally wide eyes. Daily specials from the menu – one fresh Ravioli with ricotta and nettle (heaven on a perfectly portioned plate) and sirloin steak ragu over thinly cut homemade tagliatelle. Yum. Chatter prevailed and the meal ended with two glasses of Carlo Pellegrino Passito di Pantelleria – like amber nectar in a glass. Grown on a tiny island close to Tunisia, though technically still part of Italy, the grapes are harvested and fermented without any extra addition of sugar. The result is a beautifully golden hue with honeyed jasmine, apricot and nectarine notes that pass through your nose and into the mouth. Deliciously sweet without being cloying. A veritable piece of Italy in our here western London.

A wonderful place for lunch and dinner – the management is superb and the wine list should not be read just ask Mauritzio and you will have your palate opened up to flavours from Italy that you wouldn't imagine. I've eaten here many times over many years and never been disappointed.

The food is fresh and well cooked with none of that over-rated and over-sold italian rubbish found in so many other restaurants.

Best time of the year is Autumn – there is nothing that this team doesn't know about truffles!

It is possible nowadays to walk down any high street in the country and find an Italian restaurant, however I would suggest that 98% of these would leave you thinking that the only food to come from Italy is pizza and pasta and, while these can be wonderful, these establishments do not generally leave you thinking so. Therefore, finding good, genuine Italian is always great fun.

Sadly, in my experience, good Italian food in London comes at a price that would best be described as ‘steep’, and although good, has left you feeling that you will have to work overtime for the next 6 weeks to pay off the bill! Osteria however is a combination of that all that is good about the cuisine and the Italian people, yet delivered at a price, that while not a giveaway is, at least, not eye-popping. My wife and I have now eaten here on a number of occasions both a lunchtime and dinner. At lunch we have taken my 17-month old and enjoyed a simple one course delight with a glass of wine, and in the evening have enjoyed a more sophisticated 4-course feast with a good bottle, with the babysitter allowing us some adult time. On neither occasion has the food, wine, service or ambience let us down.

I think this is an excellent restaurant and definitely worth the walk. The food is freshly prepared and always of good quality, and the ability to buy good wine by the glass is a real bonus, particularly when you are either eating something quite different from your partner, or are in the company of your child and do not wish to polish off a whole bottle. Their fresh pasta is invariably excellent, particularly with the venison ragout, and the recent samples of wild salmon (wife) and lamb cutlets (me) are also to be recommended.

Long may it continue.

Italian food is not all about Pizza and Pasta – each region has its own style and ingredients.

Osteria dell' Arancio brings to London the real food from Marche (Central Italy) with very good results