Outside, all you see of this red-fronted bistro (established 1969) is a sandwich bar & cosy lounge. Step inside, however, & its Tardis-like proportions are revealed as you pass through the front rooms into a huge conservatory & then to a garden complete with vast summerhouse, decked terrace & summer barbecues. An all-day menu of brasserie staples – terrines, steamed mussels, steak-frites – appeals to the tourists & locals filling the place at weekends. Those with hangovers or young children (or both) are drawn to the brunch menu, served until 5pm, featuring the likes of eggs Benedict, croque monsieur & sausage sandwiches. On Fridays & Saturdays, there’s a late licence & £3 ‘door charge’ as the venue becomes a ‘nightspot’; punters can choose from a list of inexpensive, highly drinkable wines.
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