It’s 100 years since Albert Medcalf opened his butcher’s shop on Exmouth Market, but quite what he would make of its transformation into a dimly lit, hip hangout for the Clerkenwell media set is unclear. It may be festooned with abstract artwork, but the place retains its original sign & frontage, & the menu is a serious advocate for British meat, game & poultry: a starter of duck hearts, pancetta & watercress might precede a mighty wild boar, fennel & cider pie or bavette steak with horseradish & chips. Desserts follow a similar comfort-food trajectory – maybe rhubarb & yoghurt fool with shortbread – although prices can sometimes be less than comforting. Once you’ve finished, the decking outside is a good spot for supping a pint of Adnams bitter or Meantime Helles lager.
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