Medcalf

Louis Medcalf might like what has become of his 1912 meat shop. This butcher’s-turned-bistro now gives a good name to retro rustic chic. At first glance Louis wouldn’t know what to make of the rough-edged design any more than he would relate to a dish of pancetta, lentils & polenta chips. But he would surely respect the sourcing of fresh, seasonal, high-quality ingredients – British whenever possible. And once he got halfway through the Welsh rarebit or Devon crab, & surveyed the noisy, dark room he would surely warm to the place. As for dessert, the choice could be as plain as dark chocolate terrine with orange caramel or white chocolate tart with berries. The wine list is rustically European, with noble Bordeaux & Burgundy as unwelcome here as linen tablecloths. Outside, the tiny canopied courtyard is deliberately spare.