A high proportion of socialising Londoners probably have at least one fond memory of this useful all-dayer – ‘one of the hottest spots on a street where people-watching is a competitive sport’. The interior wears its 20-plus years well, aping a Parisian brasserie/bar complete with zinc-topped bar and red-leather banquettes designed for cheek-by-jowl dining, while ever-accommodating staff deliver brilliant service. The kitchen excels in traditional Gallic dishes, with enjoyable options including croque monsieur, Charentais melon with Bayonne ham, niçoise salad and bavette steak with herb butter and frites – all at refreshingly reasonable prices. The all-French wine list is also on the money, with house quaffs from £13 a carafe. Breakfast and boozy brunch are big calls, and there’s even live music during the afternoon at weekends. A laid-back ambience ensures all ages and degrees of coolness fit in here.
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