Fortnum & Mason

Following its David Collins makeover in 2007, the grandest of London’s grocers is replete with five places to eat. On the corner of Jermyn Street & Duke Street, the Fountain brasserie is useful for all-day eating or a working lunch; up a level are the refectory tables of the buzzy Gallery, whose kitchen plunders its ingredients from the illustrious Food Hall. Elsewhere, The Parlour spoils all-comers with ice cream & Viennoiserie, & there are added attractions in the 1707 wine bar (see separate review). Best of all is fine-dining restaurant St James’s, spread over the whole of the fourth floor. Here you can order refined modern dishes such as beef carpaccio with tarragon dressing & Parmesan crisp, or best end of lamb with spiced velouté; the rituals of afternoon tea are played out in the plush, comfortable north end. Note: prices & opening hours listed above are for St James’s.