The Fountain
Purveyor of London’s finest groceries, venerable Fortnum & Mason offers no fewer than five settings in which to sample its estimable comestibles. Ascend to the fourth floor for afternoon tea or a more formal meal in the sprawling St James’s restaurant – a ‘bright but basic’ room, despite its David Collins makeover. The kitchen takes an eclectic approach to British produce & its efforts are generally successful – witness a delicate guinea fowl & pigeon ballottine with apple & pistachio, robust brill poached in Pinot Noir with artichoke purée, & a rousing finale of mandarin & white chocolate cheesecake. Alternatively, try The Gallery, the casual, all-day Fountain brasserie or The Parlour – a haven for ice cream fans. Fortnum’s burgeoning wine cellars are best explored at the 1707 bar. Note: prices & opening hours listed above are for St James’s.
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