Fortnum & Mason

More than three centuries down the line, one of London’s most venerable emporia basks in the bright new glow of its recent facelift, & now offers five eateries to suit most appetites or preferences. Fans of seriously good, luscious ice-cream sundaes & hot chocolate should head for the 1950s-style Parlour, while The Gallery is a showcase for ingredients from F&M’s renowned Food Hall. Elsewhere, the 1707 wine bar has its own attractions (see separate review), & The Fountain serves all-day brasserie food. Top of the list, however, is the tranquil St James’s Restaurant (pictured) on the fourth floor: come here for lunch & relax amid its old-school finery. The seasonal British menu promises chilled tian of Cromer crab flecked with pink grapefruit; juicy guinea fowl with ham hock, morels & potato purée; then iced Amedei chocolate & hazelnut parfait. This is also where to take afternoon tea in style. Note: prices & opening hours listed above are for the St James’s Restaurant.